Paul Edmund Strzelecki in Australia 1839-43
Strzelecki in Illawarra | Stamps & Covers | In Australia (video) | W.B. Clarke | von Guerard print
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| Pawel Edmund Strzelecki, daguerreotype photograph, London, circa 1845. Source: State Library of New South Wales. |
Quo Vadis Count?
Paul Edmund Strzelecki's Australian visit
Michael Organ BSc DipArchAdmin
Strzelecki's foray to the eastern seaboard could have led from Camden to Appin and either down the Old Mountain Road to Bulli or down Mitchell's newer Mount Keira Road. His map 'Carte Geologique' indicates a spur-line from somewhere near Lupton's Inn to Lake Illawarra..... (L. Paszkowski, Sir Paul Edmund de Strzelecki - Reflections on his life, 1997, p.100)
Introduction
In 1845 Polish scientist and explorer Pawel (Paul) Edmund Strzelecki published his book Physical Description of New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land (London 1845). It is a significant landmark in the annals of colonial science, being the first comprehensive scientific text on Australia. Describing aspects of the geology, geography, ecology, botany, ethnology, meteorology and natural history of southeastern Australia and Tasmania, it also contained, for example, the first substantive description of a collection of Australian fossils. This was based on work carried out for Strzelecki by noted British paleontologists John Morris, William Lonsdale and George Sowerby. Amongst the 48 Palaeozoic fossils described therein was a suite of 18 from the Illawarra district of New South Wales. A study of Strzelecki's geological maps, the Illawarra fossils and the circumstances surrounding their acquisition reveals both the importance of Strzelecki's work and the difficulties inherent in researching this elusive Pole and uncovering the precise details of his travels whilst in Australia between 1839-43. This article will focus on his engagement with the Illawarra region of New South Wales, and thereby reveal elements of his personality, work ethic and intense scientific endeavour during the four years in which he was resident in the colony.
The Mysterious Count
Paul (Pawel) Edmund Strzelecki (1797-1873) - also known as Count Strzelecki whilst in the United States and Australasia, though he bore no such official title - is a figure to be admired (Wikipedia 2019). Arriving in Sydney aboard the French barque Justine on 25 April 1839, he spent the next four years travelling some 7,000 miles on foot throughout eastern Australia and Tasmania. A number of books and articles have been written on the man (c.f. Havard 1941, Rawson 1953, Heney 1961, Kaluski 1985 and Paszkowski 1997), yet Strzelecki remains somewhat of an enigma. Known to his contemporaries as extremely sociable, charming and intelligent, he became a public figure of renown and was knighted by Queen Victoria in 1869. However, his last will and testament requested that all his papers - manuscript journals, diaries, notes, letters and reports - be burnt and that he be buried in an unmarked grave. The reason for this extraordinary request is not known. This destruction of personal records has led some biographers to overly speculate upon the events of his life.
Helen Heney (1937, 1961) and Geoffrey Blainey (1961) portrayed Strzelecki as a scoundrel. The more sober Paszkowski in 1997 concluded, following over four decades of intensive research, that it was "impossible to write a satisfactory biography of Strzelecki" and his own was merely "an attempt to reconstruct a sequence of facts framed by the period of his life" (1997, p.xiv). It is clear that Heney and Blainey were wrong, for Strzelecki was no scoundrel, though he was likely viewed as such by those envious of his abilities and achievements. He was secretive, especially in regards to matters of a personal nature concerning women, and he was something of a loner - a "poor peregrinating wandering dog" as he put it, running from the "disease of domestic felicity" - a disease he seems to have nevertheless sought in his ill-fated, lifelong relationship with Adyna Turno. Local scientist William Sharpe McLeay in 1842 went so far as to repeat the rumour that he was a Russian spy, and there is no doubt that he had close ties with official government circles throughout his life, thereby adding to the mystery surrounding his more public persona. Despite this, the vast majority of those who encountered Strzelecki were left with a positive impression of the man and his work.
Strzelecki arrived in Australia in April 1839 on the pretext of looking for minerals to sell and to investigate the Wernerian concept of 'geognosy' in regard to the continent formerly known as Terra Incognita (Physical Description, p.51). Geognosy was the study of the origin and distribution of rocks and minerals in the earths crust, and it was largely based on the work of German earth scientist Abraham Werner (1749-1817). The term was superseded during Strzelecki's time by the British geology. We have no evidence to doubt the genuineness of Strzelecki's intent in pursuing that goal, as he had done so the previous decade whilst travelling throughout Europe (1829-30), Africa (1830-1), the United States and Canada (1834-5), South America and Mexico (1835-8) and the Pacific Islands (1838-9), including New Zealand (1839). He undertook the Pacific leg whilst attached to the British frigate HMS Fly. He was by the end of this period an experienced geognostician / geologist and natural scientist with aspirations in that area, though also more businessman rather than philanthropist in regard to securing an income. The discovery, collection and sale of rocks, fossils and minerals had occupied him for many years and seemed to have provided him with a livelihood. Strzelecki was neither singularly wealthy nor destitute, and various reports suggested he had a substantial nest egg housed in a French bank account. At the same time, Strzelecki was financially constrained during his travels, though force of personality opened many doors, enabling him to fraternize with the wealthy and higher echelons of society and make use of their hospitality and financial support to defray costs such as accommodation and travel expenses. Strzelecki differed, for example, from fellow geologist the Reverend W.B. Clarke who arrived in the New South Wales in May 1839, a month after the Pole, tasked with discovering as much as possible about the local geology and forwarding this information on to England and Europe for wider dissemination amongst the scientific fraternity. At the end of the day this is also what Strzelecki did. However, the two men approached their science from very different perspectives, and whilst a large archive survives of Clarke's correspondence with fellow scientists, travellers and collectors, no such resource exists for Strzelecki. As such, we do not know the true extent of his engagement with fellow scientists, apart from what is revealed directly through his published work, and that is significant.
An initial lack of success during 1839 in finding minerals within New
South Wales, due to the recent geological history of the substantially sedimentary Sydney Basin, and the rapid development of the geological sciences in Great
Britain during the decade, led Strzelecki to quickly set geognosy aside and
widened the scope of his activities to include a more general geological, geographical and ethnological survey. He was, for example, forced to carry out trigonometrical
and barometric surveys whilst in Australia as much of the country he passed through was only
recently settled and poorly mapped - if at all - by colonial authorities. Fortune may have
proved elusive, however he was compensated with fame, becoming the first
European to officially climb and name Australia's highest peak - Mount
Kosciusko. His role in the discovery and opening up of the Gippsland region of
eastern Victoria in 1840 brought notoriety, and his many subsequent geological
and geographical investigations and revelations were of some historical significance, including an early discovery of gold and silver near Hartley.
Strzelecki therefore enhanced his personal reputation whilst in Australia and was able to
build upon it to secure his future upon travelling to England in 1844, where he was to settle. His
personal charm and efforts at self-promotion did give rise to petty jealousies
in a colony where the number of skilled, working scientists barely reached
double digits. Nevertheless, he was able to win many friends in high places.
His bravery and intrepid drive to explore south-eastern Australia, including Tasmania, was inspirational,
yet at times it verged towards what some saw as foolhardy, but what he nevertheless felt was reasonable and carried out with due preparation and support. This is best seen in his overland
expedition from Sydney to Melbourne at the beginning of 1840. It was privately funded to the degree of £500 by James Macarthur and included two Aboriginal guides who were able to ensure the party reached its final destination, despite the difficulties encountered. Strzelecki's
subsequent claim to discovery of Gippsland was rejected by the somewhat notorious squatter Angus
McMillan and his supporters, giving rise to heated debate in the Sydney and
Melbourne newspapers and to a controversy which continues to this day. The success of the overland journey reflected on the general good health and physical stamina of the man.
Strzelecki was very human, but also extremely humane. His work in helping save more than 200,000 children from starvation as a result of the Irish famine during the late 1840s is legendary. Whilst in the colony, his concern over the widespread deforestation and burning off of pasture grass in eastern Australia, and its effect upon climate and plant regrowth, marks him as an early environmentalist (viz 'Burning off pasture graze', Hunter River Gazette, 18 June 1842). His commentary on the Australian Aborigines within Physical Description included a heartfelt plea for recognition of their humanity and rights to the land, whilst at the same time reflecting an attitude of European superiority over the race. Individuals such as McMillan are now known for their ill treatment and murder of local Aboriginal people.
Strzelecki presents as a mass of contradictions, and is all the more interesting as a result. It is clear that during his time in Australia he carried out - substantially unassisted - an extraordinary amount of original research into local palaeontology, meteorology, mineralogy, physical geography, geology, ethnology, botany and the agricultural sciences. His travels on foot over 7,000 miles in 4 years were a notable feat of exploration and Physical Description stands as a monument to this flurry of activity. Yet, when one attempts to dig deeper into it, and into the everyday work of this illusive Pole, dead-ends are encountered. Precise details of Strzelecki's travels and whereabouts at any given point in time are often only gleaned from secondary sources or the reminiscences of those who happened to encounter him. His surviving records, including Physical Description, are usually vague or useless for those seeking details of where he went, when he went there, who he met and what he saw. The works of Heney and Blainey reflect some of the frustrations inherent in attempting such research - a situation brought on by his own actions and the contents of his will which apparently resulted in the destruction of detailed personal and scientific journals and diaries which we know he compiled.
Missing months.....
It is tantalising to realise that whilst in Australia
Strzelecki compiled a detailed, descriptive diary in French, excerpts of which
are dotted throughout Physical Description. Charles Darwin was so impressed
with the journal - he had recently published his own bestseller describing his
time aboard the HMS Beagle - that in 1845 he suggested the whole work be
published separately. Strzelecki later wrote to his life-long love Adyna Turno
informing her that she would be the one to prepare it for publication. Yet this
never came to pass and it remains lost, perhaps burnt with Strzelecki's papers
upon his death. The absence of detailed personal records such as this has
forced historians to seek out and take note of the most insignificant
references. Fortunately such references continue to be uncovered. For example,
the published manuscript diary notes of Lady Jane Franklin and a section of the
voluminous correspondence of the Reverend W.B. Clarke added further detail to Strzelecki's Australian
visit
(Organ 1988, Russell 2002, Moyal 2003). Whilst much is known of his Gippsland expedition in 1840 and two years
spent in Tasmania between 24 July 1840 and 29 September 1842, there are
otherwise many blanks. For example, a reading of the numerous published works
and extant manuscript sources provide little help for the specific period between his
arrival in Sydney on 25 April 1839 and departure early in September on an excursion
over the Blue Mountains to Bathurst and Wellington Caves. His final 6 months in
the colony is similarly constrained by a lack of documentary evidence.
Determination of the precise circumstances by which
Strzelecki acquired a collection of fossils from the Illawarra district
likewise requires a considerable degree of historical detective work, and the question as to whether he collected the material himself, or acquired it through a third party, also remains unanswerable. For the months of
May, June, July and August 1839 all that is known is that Strzelecki made acquaintance
with important people such as Governor George Gipps, Stuart A. Donaldson (an
old friend from South America), Phillip Parker King (former master of HMS
Beagle) and his son Phillip Gidley King, and members of the Macarthur family. These included the elder James
Macarthur of Camden Park, and his young cousin James Macarthur, whose father Hannibal
Hawkins Macarthur owned the properties known as the Vineyard at Parramatta and Arthursleigh on the
Wollondilly River. Strzelecki's free movement amongst senior colonial officials
and naval officers suggests an ease of association deriving from similar
experiences, or some official, if secretive, commissions on behalf of
government. This is mere speculation, but would explain elements of the mystery
surrounding his time in the colony. After Strzelecki's arrival in late
April 1839, the first we hear of him is that sometime during May he visited
Captain John Lort Stokes on board the HMS Beagle in Sydney Harbour, and on 7
June was present at a dinner at Government House attended by Lady Jane
Franklin, wife of Sir John Franklin, Governor of Tasmania. She had recently completed an overland journey from Melbourne, stopping off on the way in the Illawarra. Her diary notes
record the following of her initial encounter with Strzelecki:
... Dinner party: Captain, Mrs & Mr O'Connell;
Dowlings, Sir James, Lady & Miss. Lady Dowling cleverish - sister to one
gone to VDL. Count Strzelecki talked much to me - perceived VDL was a hit with
me. Talking of English gambling, he said it explained beggary in England &
wickedness here. Had broken his instructions coming here & to VDL said we
should give him a great deal of work. (Jane Franklin, Diary notes, Saturday 8 June 1839)
The reference to 'breaking his instructions' is
suggestive of some sort of official assignment or employment, though we have no
further details as to what this could have been. Lady Franklin subsequently noted in a letter of 15 June 1839 to her
husband that 'we shall also have visits soon from Count Strzelecki - a
most agreeable Pole' indicating his early plans to head south to Tasmania, or Van Dieman's Land as it was then known. Strzelecki
visited Lady Franklin again at Government House, Sydney, on Thursday 11 July,
just prior to her departure for Hobart. The diary of Emmeline Macarthur of Camden Park also mentions him: I recollect Count Strzelecki frequently at Vineyard
[Parramatta]. Though undated, it perhaps indicates that the Vineyard property on the banks of the Parramatta River, west of Sydney, was
Strzelecki's base during these first 4 months in Australia as a result of his growing friendship with James Macarthur. However, no clear
evidence of this has yet been located and a reading of the few known
biographical fragments would suggest that he was also renting accommodation in the
centre of Sydney. Strzelecki's small manuscript map 'Carte Geologique' (described in detail
below) shows the various routes he travelled whilst in Australia and has a
starting point in the vicinity of Parramatta, possibly at Vineyard, though this may have been a more
general reference to the Sydney region due to the map's relatively small scale.
We know that Strzelecki preferred to travel on foot,
for this was the best method of discovering
minerals and seeing first-hand the geology around him. Having said that, he also utilised the horse and cart to carry his many geological specimens, along with supplies and equipment. Strzelecki was competent in the use of scientific equipment such as the barometer and could
take chemical analyses on the fly. Whilst in Australia his method of working
appears to have been one of traversing the country in broad zig-zag patterns, collecting
rocks, fossils and soil samples, and taking barometric and magnetic readings
using equipment he often carried on his back. In this way he was able to cover a lot
of ground in a relatively short space of time and map out his route taken. He was variously supported by
horses, convict servants, Aboriginal guides and free settlers who accompanied him on sections. The first four months in Australia
were most probably spent reading any published accounts relating to its natural
history, of which there were few, getting access to available maps, talking to
fellow workers in the field, and acquiring equipment and assistance from
government and friends. Whilst doing
all this, Strzelecki appears to have investigated the countryside about Sydney and
began to build a collection of rocks, fossils and minerals.
Strzelecki's September 1839 Blue Mountains expedition is considered his
first opportunity for scientific investigation. However, he may have started
earlier. Nothing specific is known of his activities during August 1839, for example. Early in September he left Sydney, or Parramatta, and headed west on foot
for the Blue Mountains. He was accompanied by a single servant, with both men
carrying their provisions and scientific equipment on their backs. On 8
September he was at Mount Tomah, on the eastern edge of the Blue Mountains. Ten
days later he had crossed through difficult terrain and reached the plains to
the west. On 17 September he wrote a letter to Stuart Donaldson from the farm
of James Walker at Walerawang, near Lithgow. Whilst en route he found evidence
of gold near Hartley Vale and later, beyond that, more gold near Bathurst.
These were finds which were subsequently to see him involved in controversy
during the early 1850s when various individuals, including Edward Hammond
Hargraves, William Tipple Smith, W.B. Clarke and even the noted British
scientist Sir Roderick Murchison laid claim to being the first discoverer of
gold in Australia.
By 16 October 1839 Strzelecki was carrying out
mineralogical investigations in the Wellington district and unearthing fossil
bones at the Wellington Caves. His subsequent journeying extended some 400 miles west of Sydney as far
as Mount Canobolas (near Orange) and the Lachlan River near Parkes. He also
travelled northerly towards Gulgong. A report in the Sydney Gazette of 7
November noted Strzelecki's extended presence at Wellington and an intention to
visit the Snowy Mountains region:
Science.
We are informed that Count Strelski, a foreign nobleman, an enthusiast in the sciences of mineralogy and geology, has for some time back been travelling the country to the westward, in the direction of Wellington Valley, engaged in the examination of the mineralogy of the Colony. The Count, we are told, confines his researches for the present within an area of about sixty miles, but he contemplates, as soon as he shall have satisfactorily accomplished the task to which he has devoted himself, to visit the Australian Alps, and other parts of the Colony likely to afford him a field for his enterprise. On foot, and attended only by a single servant to assist in carrying his provisions and the various specimens he has collected, the Count has prosecuted his search amidst very considerable hardships; but we would fain hope, not without acquiring information which will ultimately prove beneficial to science and to the interests of this community. The impostor Dr. John Lhotsky has left behind him among the settlers a feeling of distrust towards foreign literati, and we should not be much surprised to hear that Count Strelski had suffered from the effects of it; we trust, however, that this notice will have the effect of removing any such distrust, if it has had an existence, and inducing our settlers to receive the Count with their customary hospitality, and to render him every assistance in his hazardous enterprise.
All told, some 2,000 miles were covered on foot during this initial period of on-the-ground research. Strzelecki was back at Sydney by 28 November 1839, taking up residence at the Australian Club (the old Pulteney Hotel) on the corner of Bent and O'Connell Streets, set up by his friend Stuart Donaldson. Upon his return he informed Governor Gipps of his mineral discoveries, noting the presence of gold and silver near Bathurst and Wellington. Gipps in reply warned him against making this public, afraid it might stir the convict population to revolt. The Reverend W.B. Clarke received similar advice from Gipps in 1841 after he also found gold near Hartley. Upon being shown a specimen at the time, the Governor supposedly uttered those famous words: "Put it away Mr Clarke or we should all have our throats cut!" There is no doubt Gipps' words to Strzelecki were similarly stern.
Following his return to Sydney in November, Strzelecki and the young James Macarthur finalised their plans on travelling to the Snowy Mountains together and exploring the then unknown country of north-eastern Victoria, at the time apparently only familiar to the local Aboriginal population. Hannibal Macarthur and his son James supported the expedition, which ultimately proved a great success in opening up Gippsland to the new settlers. However it came at a price to Strzelecki's reputation, as others went on to claim discovery. His arrival at Port Phillip was widely reported at the time, with the following example from the Port Phillip Herald, 2 June 1840:
EXPEDITION OF COUNT STRELESKI.
We have sincere gratification in announcing the arrival in Melbourne of Count Streleski, the enterprising pedestrian naturalist, and his friends and companions de voyage, Messrs Macarthur and Riley, from an exploratory tour through the terra incognita on the southeast coast of New South Wales, in the course of which they have made several highly important discoveries, and have undergone excessive privations. Some interesting particulars of the journey, gleaned in conversation with the travellers, we hasten to lay before our readers, and we hope to be able very shortly to publish a more detailed account of the important discoveries they have made.
The present tour was undertaken by Count Streleski in continuation of those geognostic and mineralogical researches which had previously carried him over 2,000 miles within the limits of the colony, and now induced him to start from the Murrumbidgee to explore the unknown, and by white men untrodden, territory lying between the Hume and the southeastern coast of New South Wales. At Ellerslie, a station belonging to H.H. Macarthur, Esq., M.C., the Count was joined by Mr James Macarthur and Mr Riley, both of whom were eager to share with the Count in the toils and gratifications of such an undertaking. The party seems to have started well provided with provisions and pack horses, and all well mounted, excepting the Count, who, having with him a considerable number of valuable instruments necessary for the prosecution of his observations, and which, on account of their delicate construction, required the greatest care of carriage, preferred pursuing his journey on foot, with his budget on his back.
From Ellerslie the party descended into the beautiful valley of the Hume or Murray, and followed its picturesque windings for about fifty miles. Here the travellers encamped, the Count and Mr Macarthur ascended the Australian Alps, and on the 12th of February [12 March], about noon, they found themselves sitting on the most elevated peak of Australia, at the height of 7,800 feet above the level of the sea, beyond the reach of vegetation, surrounded by perpetual snows, with a serene and lucid sky above them, and below an unbroken view over an extent of about 4,000 square miles. On the summit of the Alps Count Streleski secured many valuable meteorological and magnetic observations. The trigonometrical survey which the Count had begun, and carried on from the Murrumbidgee, received new supports from this predominant point; valuable materials for future publication were also obtained in aid of the Count's barometrical survey, and his geognostic and mineralogical investigation.
From the snowy range retracing their steps for about thirty miles to the westward, the party struck for the south through a broken and uninhabited country, opening, as it were, by their first track, perhaps a future communication with the Murray. Arrived at Omeo, the country afforded a new and ample harvest of observation and gratification, from its peculiar geognostic character and connecting links of the survey. In three days journey from Omeo, in a south-east direction, the party crossed the divided range, and in four days more found themselves in a new and splendid country, clothed with the richest pasture, and intersected with numerous rivers, an immense inland lake, and its ramified lagoons; in fact, opening up in every direction fresh fields for the operations of the settler, such as no other part of the colony which had come under the notice of the travellers presented.
The country from latitude thirty-seven degrees ten minutes south assumed the most cheering and gratifying aspect; but the rivers which bisect the country from north-west to south-east greatly retarded the progress of the travellers, whose provisions now began to fail. On the 6th of April it was determined to place all hands on half rations (a biscuit and a slice of bacon per day), but new difficulties and new delays soon rendered it evident that, even with this precautionary measure, it would be impossible to make the stock of provisions last out the journey. The greatest impediment the travellers had to contend with was the exhausted state of their horses; each day saw one or other of the party dismounted to follow the Count on foot; but this, far from removing, only increased the impediments to their progress; for the men, unaccustomed to walk like the horses, began to feel the wear and tear of the journey. In this situation it became necessary for the travellers to relinquish (which they did with regret) their original intention of prosecuting their researches as far as Wilson's promontory, and the commencing the exploration of the sea-coast, its inlets and outlets, and to take instead the straight course for Western Port, the nearest point whence fresh supplies could be obtained. The open forest, plains, and valleys through which the party, if well supplied with provisions, might have travelled at leisure, had now to be exchanged for a rocky and a mountainous path, through which a passage could not be effected without infinite difficulty.
The horses, now completely exhausted, served more to retard than accelerate the progress of the travellers, and they were finally obliged to abandon them in a valley of tolerable pasture and well watered, about seventy-five miles beyond Western Port; here also they were forced to leave the packs with the men's wearing apparel, and the count's mineralogical and botanical collection, taking with them only their blankets and the residue of their bread, which, notwithstanding the allowance had been greatly restricted, did not last longer than four days from this time. From this place the Count and his companions took, and at all hazards maintained, a direct course to Western Port, in the hope of bringing their sufferings to a close as speedily as possible, but unfortunately this course led them for days together through a dense scrub which it was almost impossible to penetrate. The party was now in a most deplorable condition; Messrs Macarthur and Riley, and their attendants, had become so exhausted as to be unable to cope with the difficulties which beset their progress. The Count being more inured to the fatigue and privations attendant upon a pedestrian journey through the wilds of our inhospitable interior, alone retained possession of his strength; and although burdened with a load of instruments and papers of forty-five lbs. weight, continued to pioneer his exhausted companions day after day through an almost impervious tea-tree scrub, closely interwoven with climbing grasses, vines, willows, fern, and reeds. Here the Count was to be seen breaking a passage with his hands and knees through the centre of the scrub, there throwing himself at full length among the dense underwood, and thus opening, by the weight of his body, a pathway for his companions in distress. Thus the party inch by inch forced their way.
The incessant rains prevented them from taking rest by night or day. Their provisions during the last eighteen days of their journey consisted only of a very scanty supply of the flesh of the native bear, or monkey [Koala], but for which — the only game the country afforded — the travellers must have perished for utter starvation. This food, which the travellers describe as somewhat of the toughest, was but scantily obtained, and the nutriment it afforded was altogether insufficient for the maintenance of the health and strength necessary for undergoing such fatigue. On the 22nd day, after they had abandoned their horses, the travellers came in sight of Western Port, and the sensations which were created by the first view of the water, on which a small vessel was riding at anchor, and the blue smoke curling among the trees, may be more easily imagined than described. It was upon Mr Berry's tent the party had stumbled, and to his hospitality and kind attention to their wants, they owe their recovery to health and vigour.
Messrs Macarthur and Riley acknowledged themselves to be under great obligations to Count Streleski, to whom, under Divine Providence, they attributed their safety. Although furnished with sextant and artificial horizon, the state of the weather was such that, during the last twenty-two days, notwithstanding the utmost exertion of the travellers, the latitude and azimuth could only twice be ascertained; but such attention was paid to the variations of the compass, and laying down the course upon the chart, that the latest observation did not differ from the meridian of Western Port more than two miles. In the course of a few days, the public may expect a more circumstantial narration of the journey, and an opportunity will be afforded for the inspection of the chart of the new and valuable country which the count, in honour of his excellency the governor, has designated Gipps' Land. We have much pleasure in stating that, in the opinion of Count Streleski, there exists no impediment to the immediate occupation of Gipps' Land by the enterprising settlers of Port Phillip, and that it is much more easy of access from Melbourne than from Maneroo or the Omeo country. The brilliant prospects which the discovery of so splendid a country in the hitherto considered barren region lying between Australia Felix and the outer coast stations of New South Wales, opens up to this province, must be obvious to all, and we trust Count Streleski and his gallant companions will not be allowed to leave Melbourne without some public testimonial of the approbation of the colonists.—Port Phillip Herald.
A subsequent report in the Port Phillip Herald (reprinted in the Australasian Chronicle 7 July 1840) supplemented this information with material from Strzelecki's original journal (now lost):
DISCOVERY of GIPPS LAND.
In presenting the following sketch to the public, it may be necessary to premise that the notes of Count Streleski, taken during his exploring expedition in Gipps Land, have only been used when they refer to subjects of which it would be beneficial to the settlers of this province to be informed. There are many scientific discoveries noticed in the journal, which, although invaluable in their way, have not been considered to be the sort of information most required by the public. The general objects of the expedition were to determine the course of the range turning the eastern and western waters, and to complete a geognostic survey of the country. The party, consisting of Count Streleski, Messrs. Macarthur and Riley, with servants, &c., began by following the valley of the Murray for seventy miles, till they arrived at the foot of the highest peak of the Australian Alps. An ascent was immediately commenced, and on the 15th of February [12 March], at noon, the count attained the summit of the mountain amid perpetual snows. The scene described is most beautiful; above, a transparent sky, and below, an uninterrupted view of seven thousand square miles, embracing the sources of the Dumutt and Murrumbidgee, the windings of the Murray, the course of the dividing range, and the tops of Mount Aberdeen and Mount Butler. The elevation from which this view was obtained was named Mount Kosciusko, and I should not be doing justice to the distinguished author of this journal, if I attempted to convey in other language than his own, the feelings which induced him to fix upon that particular name. They are feelings with which all must sympathise who reverence the names of those who have died for their country's freedom. I subjoin an extract from the original document :— "The particular configuration of this eminence struck me so forcibly, by the similarity it bears to a tumulus elevated in Krakow over the tomb of the patriot Kosciusko, that, although in a foreign country, on foreign ground, but amongst a free people who appreciate freedom and its votaries, I could not refrain from giving it the name of Mount Kosciusko." The party thence retreated their steps to the source of Cowrang Creek, pursuing a course which finally brought them to Lake Omeo. The waters of this lake are scanty, and it has a "basin-like" shape, similar to that of Lake George or Lake Bathurst. The valley of the Murray, with those adjacent, are clothed with the finest pasture, and offer the most suitable locations for settlers ; the Omeo country also is described as not less naturally desirable, while a communication between the vale of the Murrumbidgee about Cowrang Creek, the Omeo country, and Port Phillip is represented as feasible and expedient. That division of the country which received the name of Gipps Land from its discoverer, Count Streleski, in honour of his Excellency Sir George Gipps, begins seventeen miles to the S.S.E. of Omeo, after crossing the dividing range. It is bounded by the meridian of 148 from the N.E., by the sea coast and dividing range from the east and west respectively, and by Corner Inlet and Western Port from the S. and S.W. Within these limits are rich plains and open forests, watered by eight large rivers ; fine timber is also to be met with, and the climate, as shown by the meteorological table, is apparently salubrious. This country adjoins the sea coast, and has facilities for inland navigation, together with an easy access to Western Port, and a still easier to Corner Inlet, which is navigable for vessels of 300 tons. On entering Gipps Land the count and his party crossed a beautiful stream, the first of the eastern waters, which soon swells into a river. Its source is marked by the cattle stations of Messrs. Butler and McAlister, who are the first pioneers into the new country. Ascending a culminant ridge to the south of the river, there is a splendid view of the sea upon the S. E. horizon, with a fine undulating country in the fore-ground ; to the N. E. the scene changes to ridges and mountains. The river, after a course of seventy miles through a fine forest country, empties itself into an oblong lagoon of one hundred feet in breadth, which joins an extensive lake bordering on the sea coast. A south-eastern course leads to a second and third lagoon; the latter, three hundred yards in width, spreads its waters for about twenty-two miles in a river like shape, till it finally terminates in a river, with a gravelly bottom, about twenty yards in width. This river runs from the high north-westerly protuberances of the dividing range, and its banks are steep and hilly. Having crossed it, the scene opens at once upon a rich undulating country, which, sloping away to the south, shows a third large river.
The banks of the above-mentioned lagoons are accessible, their waters being, with the exception of the middle one, fresh, deep, and clear of timber. They appeared to be stationary, but on a closer examination proved to be slightly affected by the action of the tide and of their tributaries. The lake which has already been alluded to as affording facilities for inland navigation, was named Lake King, after Captain P. P. King, R. N. It is a fine sheet of water, fifteen miles in length, disemboguing in a broad sea channel, which does not appear, as far as could be ascertained by the telescope, to have any bar at its entrance. The first river was named River Thomson, in honour of Mr. Thomson, the colonial secretary, and the two last rivers, Rivers Riley and Macarthur, in honour of the count's two travelling companions. South-west of Macarthur River lies a fine forest, insensibly sloping towards the sea coast. This section of Gipps Land presents no difficulties to the explorer, and a direct course between the main range and the sea was accordingly maintained for some days. Thirty-five miles from Macarthur River was a fourth river, twelve miles from that a fifth, and at four more a sixth, the largest of the three, which after having received the two former, follows the fall of the country to the S. E. coast. The last three rivers were named after Captain Perry, surveyor-general, Mr. Dunlop, of the Parramatta observatory, and Major Barney. Two fine plains, one about thirty, the other about fifty miles, in breadth, lying contiguous to this last river, were named Barney Plains. The average depth of the rivers is about three feet. The scenery in this neighbourhood is the finest in Gipps Land. Upon your right the Alps are towering into the regions of perpetual snow ; before you lies an undulating country of hill and valley and plain, intersected by sinuous waters, while far away in the S. E. the first elevations of the coast range begin to appear. Pursuing a S. W. course the party traversed, as the crow flies, twenty miles of magnificent forest land, gradually narrowing into an open valley as the coast range and the dividing range approached to each other. The spurs of these ranges soon intercepted the direct course, being succeeded by a thick willow scrub, fringing another river, to which the party began to draw near. At this point it became necessary to change the course to about N. W., and after two days a crossing place was found considerably higher up the river. This river was called Maconochie River, after Captain Maconochie, R.N. Fourteen miles farther, in the direction of Corner Inlet, is an eighth river, larger than any of the preceding, which was named River Latrobe, in compliment to his Honor C. J. Latrobe.The aspect of the country varies in this portion of Gipps Land. The River Maconochie is almost a boundary between the valleys and the hilly ground of the S. W., and the flat or undulating forest extending to the N. E. On the River Latrobe rich plains are no more to be seen, but in their place are wide and deep valleys to the N.W. & W., and hilly ranges to the S. and S. W., interspersed with innumerable creeks and clothed with exuberant vegetation. From a neighbouring hill a panoramic view of the whole country is obtainable, including the dividing range running from N. W. to S. W. on to Wilson's Promontory, also a spur detached from the main range, which bending eastward from the S. W. crowns all this quarter with summits of moderate elevation, and bordering the sea coast from one side, from the other embraces with the main range the extensive valleys to the N. E. and W. After leaving the River Latrobe the course to Corner Inlet was resumed, but the utter exhaustion of the horses began seriously to impede the progress of the party. In a few days it was found necessary to abandon them. All those engaged in the expedition had now been for five weeks on an allowance of one biscuit and a slice of bacon per day, and even at this rate the remainder of the provision would only last four days. It was thus only from dire necessity and with great regret that the original intention of pursuing the main range down to Wilson's Promontory was at length relinquished, and the most direct course to Western Port immediately determined upon. The route now commenced led for twenty-two days through a scrubby country, timbered with the finest sort of blue gum and black butt. The scrub in some places was almost impassable, more particularly from the weakness of the adventurers, who, being by this time entirely out of provisions, were reduced to live upon the Australian bear or monkey {Koala}, which was only occasionally obtainable. Happily both the ascent and descent of the dividing range in the direction of Western Port was gradual, not presenting the bold features or lofty protuberances which characterise that range elsewhere. Some minor spurs on the western side form an extensive valley almost opposite to that watered by the River Latrobe on the eastern; others, which a further survey proved to divide creeks running in the direction of Cape Liptrap and Western Port, were the sole elevations in the rest of this undulating country. I shall conclude the description of Gipps Land with a literal extract from Count Streleski's own narrative. After noticing the excellence of the climate, and some scientific discoveries, he proceeds :—
"That which, however, is already open to industry, ready to reward the toil and perseverance of the unwearied and thriving settlers of Australia, is the country itself, considered as an agricultural and pastoral one. Scarcely any spot I know, either within or without the boundaries of New South Wales, on a large or small scale, can boast such advantages as Gipps Land. On an extent of five thousand square miles it has upwards of two hundred and fifty miles of sea coast, two already known harbours, that of Corner Inlet and Western Port, besides those for small craft which may probably exist where her waters disembogue ; eight rivers, in addition to a navigable lake and lagoons, which bisect one hundred miles in length ; three thousand six hundred square miles of forest, plains, vallies, which in richness of soil, pasturage, and situation cannot be surpassed ; two thousand square miles of a coast range, capped with blue gum and black butt of a most excellent quality, and embracing valleys large and deep, which hold out a fine prospect to the cattle breeder." The most distant of the north-east points of Gipps Land is only one hundred and twenty miles from Corner Inlet, and one hundred and sixty from Western Port. A communication for seventy miles could be established by the construction of bridges across the rivers. The rest of the road, if a course is pursued through the ranges, would require to be cleared of brush and logs; but an apparently easier route would be to follow the course of a valley lying on the western side of the dividing range, and mounting the ridge, which is there of easy ascent, to descend into the valley running to its foot upon the eastern side. There remains only to point out to the public what course will conduct any enterprising individual into this favoured land. In the opinion of Count Streleski it would be advisable for any person wishing to visit Gipps Land, either to go to Western Port, and thence retrace the tracks of the party which he conducted, or otherwise turning off at Mr. Dodds' station, to follow the tracks of Mr. J. Macarthur's overseer and a small party which have been dispatched after the horses, which were abandoned on the River Latrobe.— Port Phillip Herald.
There was widespread controversy in the Sydney and Melbourne newspapers for years to come over whether Strzelecki and Macarthur's claim to discovery had precedence over that of Scottish squatter Angus McMillan. McMillan had taken up land there during 1839, but kept his discovery a secret. Strzelecki and Macarthur made no secret of their exploring efforts, eventually presenting and publishing a detailed account of their travels, with a map. They were therefore able to make claim to the discovery, or at least partial discovery, though in the long run it meant little, for escaped convicts and others had known and occupied the area for many years previous, and of course the local Aboriginal population knew it intimately. Throughout this episode Strzelecki was supported and encouraged by Governor Gipps. In 1856 Macarthur wrote to the Melbourne Argus newspaper outlining the expedition and the role he played in supporting the work of Strzelecki:
Exploration of Gippsland.
A'LLAH.
A dinner was given in honor of Mr Angus McMillan, at Yarram, Gippsland, in 1856, at which he was proclaimed the discoverer of Gippsland. This was reported on in the ARGUS the day after, and resulted in Mr James McArthur writing the following letter explanatory of the part he, in conjunction with the Polish Count Strezlecki, took in the discovery. The letter was as follows:—
I observe in your valuable journal of yesterday an account of the entertainment lately given to Mr McMillan as the discoverer of Gippsland. Without wishing in the slightest degree to detract from or diminish the credit due to that gentleman for his exertions as one of the first explorers, I feel that I have some right to claim a share, at least, in the exploration which led to the successful occupation of that fine district. In the winter of the year 1839 I accompanied my friend, Captain Hording, then in command of H.M.S. Pelorus, to Van Dieman's Land. Returning from Hobart Town to Sydney, our party on board was increased by the addition of my friend the late John Blaxland, jun., Esq., of Newington, New South Wales. Passing the eastern end of Bass Strait we encountered a very heavy N.E. gale, which lasted several days. The bright, beautiful weather that succeeded the gale found us driven far to the west of Cape Howe. When running along the coast Mr Blaxland and I both observed that the mountains receded considerably inland towards Wilson's Promontory, and we both agreed that it was likely that a valuable grazing country existed between the mountains and the coast. I then determined to form an expedition from Sydney to explore the country between Omeo and Port Phillip.
Arriving in Sydney I met Count Strezlecki, a scientific explorer of considerable experience in other parts of the world (and whose name has since been so honorably associated in the gratuitous distribution of the Irish relief fund). I mentioned my intention to him, and he promised to join me whenever I was prepared. I mentioned also my intention to my old friend, Mr Lachlan McAlister, and from his withholding all information from me, I have hitherto assumed that at that time he was really ignorant of the fine grazing country that his friend, Mr McMillan, subsequently occupied with his (Mr McAlister's) stock.
Mr McMillan's actual dates, as published in your journal, and which I now learn for the first time, will leave our respective steps in the discovery of Gippsland recorded beyond any further dispute. My party consisted of Count Strezlecki, James Riley, Esq., now of Geelong, and myself, accompanied by two servants, and my Aboriginal named Charles Tarra, from Taralga, near Goulburn Plains. The entire outfit of the expedition was born principally by me, and cost me upwards of £500. Mr Riley and I left Parramatta on the 17th January 1840, Count Strezlecki and his servant, with one pack horse, joined us at Gunong, near Goulburn Plains, on the 5th February. We reached my stations near the Tumut on the 11th February, from thence I despatched a party overland to meet me in Melbourne, under the charge of Mr Hector McKay, now residing at Bacchus Marsh. We started from Ellerslie on the afternoon of the 2nd March, 1840, and on the 26th March passed Mr McAlister's Station beyond Omeo plains. Here we found Mr McMillan absent, but received much kind attention and aid from young Mr McAlister. From here we learned that Mr McMillan had penetrated to a fine grazing country about a week previously (in the direction we intended travelling), but the party had been obliged to return for want of provisions. Thus far Mr McMillan has ascertained the existence of a grazing country. We occasionally saw his tracks up to our fording of the river Riley, on the 6th April/ Beyond this point we saw no further trace of any party having preceded us.
On the 20th April, we entered the beautiful plains called by Count Strezlecki after our mutual friend, Colonel Barney. On the 15th April, we left the open and entered densely wooded country, and struggled on till the 27th, when we were compelled to abandon our horses. We then proceeded on our way, without provisions, except the Kolas (native bear) we shot, till the 12th May. On that day we reached the old settlement at Westernport. We were there kindly entertained by a resident named Berry, Mr Ross, now of Heidelberg, and Messrs. Massie and Anderson, then occupying that country. We remained some days at Westernport, regaining our exhausted strength, and then travelled on foot to Melbourne.
The result of our journey was immediately published, and a party started from Melbourne by sea to connect our exploration with Corner Inlet. I allowed Charles Tarra to accompany this expedition, and he subsequently returned through Gippsland with Mr Surveyor Townsend. Mr McMillan's dates are:—
First exploration reached Mount McLeod, now the Haystack, on the 30th May, 1839. After many subsequent unsuccessful attempts, he started on the 9th February, 1841, and reached the old port on the 14th February. In the May following he succeeded in taking down a dray. A reference to the files of the Port Phillip Patriot will afford you any further information. I furnish you with these particulars without the slightest wish to detract from the energy and perseverance displayed by Mr McMillan. At the same time I feel that I have the right of at least participating in the honor of exploration, and of having been the first, by publication of our discoveries, to open the immediate occupation of the important district of Gippsland to the enterprise of the then infant Colony of Victoria.
I remain Sir.
Yours faithfully,
James McArthur.
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After arriving in Melbourne on 19 May 1840, Strzelecki
spent approximately six weeks there recovering from the expedition, promoting
his discoveries, writing a report of his travels and compiling a map of the
route from Yass. He then travelled on to Tasmania, reaching Launceston on 24
July. He remained there as a welcome guest of Sir John and Lady Jane Franklin
for a period of approximately two years, until late September 1842. During this period he travelled extensively
throughout Tasmania and carried out scientific experiments for the governor and
in connection with his proposed publication. Upon returning to Sydney on 2
October 1842, Strzelecki spent the following six months undertaking further
researches in the northern part of the Colony and, with the assistance of
Phillip Parker King, compiling his notes on the geology and mineralogy of
southeastern Australia and Tasmania. For many months he was based at King's
residence Tahlee, on Port Stephens. He was visited there in December by English geologist J.B. Jukes, who at the time was attached to HMS Fly.
Strzelecki left New South Wales on 22 April 1843, bound
for England via Hong Kong, China and Egypt. He arrived in London on 24 October
1843 and, with the assistance of £400 donated by his friends in Tasmania, went
about the task of preparing Physical Description for publication. He spent much
of 1844 working on the text and securing input from fellow researchers. The
book was published in London in March 1845 and was well received by the scientific
fraternity. The Times newspaper gave it a scathing review because they
felt it lacked readability for the general public. Some of Strzelecki's fossil
collections and maps eventually found their way into the Library of the British
Geological Survey, though his notes did not. Strzelecki had an active and full life subsequent to his
round-the-world tour, living out his final years in London. He was naturalized
as a British citizen in 1845 and knighted in 1869. Though he was a prominent
member of the Royal Geographical Society and the Royal Society of London, he did
little work of a scientific nature after returning from Australia. Strzelecki
passed away on 6 October 1873 leaving an estate worth £10,000 and a noteworthy
will.
Illawarra Excursions
A precise study of Strzelecki's encounter with the Illawarra region is revelatory of the man and his working methods, though information on the fossils he found there and details of his visit are fragmentary and imprecise. The Illawarra region is located on the east coast of New South Wales approximately 50 miles (80 kilometres) south of Sydney. It is within 2 day's walking distance of the metropolis and less than a day from Camden or Appin. It should be noted that in 1839 the term Illawarra was used to denote the region south of Sydney and beyond to the Shoalhaven. It is therefore possible that some of Strzelecki's Illawarra fossils may have been sourced from areas which lie within the boundaries of the present-day Shoalhaven district and to the south. This is important, as the geology in that part of New South Wales is very different - older and more complex due to igneous intrusions - from that of central and northern Illawarra, which lies on the southern boundary of the more geologically recent and largely sedimentary Sydney Basin.
A cursory reading of Physical Description provides direct evidence of Strzelecki's presence in the Illawarra, for he talks of it possessing "the most picturesque and the most gloomy and savage scenery" (page 61). There is also a geological note on the strike and dip of the sedimentary formations of the Illawarra - an observation that they slope generally to the north-west and form the southern edge of the 'Newcastle' Basin' (now known as the Sydney Basin). Most significantly he includes detailed descriptions of a large collection of Palaeozoic fossils from the Illawarra in Section VI (pages 261-296). All told, Paszkowski noted 16 references to the Illawarra within Physical Description (pages 61, 91, 266, 271-7, 279, 282,284, 288, 290-1). There also exist a number of maps deriving from Strzelecki's visit to Australia and indicating the routes he followed and geology unearthed. These maps are described in Branagan (1986) and Paszkowski (1997). They include:
- Geological map of New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land, manuscript, circa 1841-44 [1850], 7.5m x 1.5m (25 ft x 5 ft), scale 1/4 inch to 1 mile, ink and colour, Library of the British Geological Survey.
- Legend accompanying the geological map of New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land, manuscript, circa 1841-44 [1850], 0.6 m x 0.5 m, ink and colour, Library of the British Geological Survey.
- Small geological map of New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land, manuscript, circa 1841-44 [1850], 0.6 m x 0.5 m, ink and colour, Library of the British Geological Survey
- Geological sections (18) of New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land, manuscript, circa 1841-44 [1850], 8.0 m x 1.0 m, Library of the British Geological Survey.
- Carte Geologique de la Nouvelle Galle et Van Dieman's [Geological Map of New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land], manuscript, circa 1845, Polish Academy of Science, Cracow. Similar to the small map (item 3) though with Strzelecki's various routes highlighted in red.
- Map of New South Wales & Van Dieman's Land, from the original geological map by P.E. de Strzelecki, J. Arrowsmith, London, 1845. Published with Physical Description.
- Victorian Expedition Route, manuscript, State Library of Victoria.
- Victorian Expedition Route, J. Arrowsmith, Parliamentary Papers, London, 1844.
- Tasmanian Coalfields, 1840-42. Various manuscript maps included in reports to Governor Sir John Franklin.
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| 1. P.E. Strzelecki's published geological map of eastern Australia (extract), 1845, showing the Illawarra and Shoalhaven regions. This map was drawn by J. Arrowsmith and is based on Strzelecki's original manuscript map. Key: First Epoch (Pink), Second Epoch (Yellow), Third Epoch (Blue-green), Fourth Epoch (Brown). These colours are related to the colouring used in the original large scale map. |
His geological background, at least what is known of it, was Wernerian and apparently based on teachings in France and Scotland (Branagan, 1986). Strzelecki therefore initially investigated 'geognosy' and his rocks were allocated to an appropriate Epoch within Physical Description. The coloured sections of his published map show that he was able to delineate the extent of the sedimentary rocks which form the Sydney Basin and which were designated by him as belonging to Epoch 3, coloured in blue-green. The published map has the Illawarra region geologically coloured as far south as the Shoalhaven River, indicating that Strzelecki investigated its geology first-hand. The colouring within the northern Illawarra region indicates the rough extension of the geographical feature known as the Illawarra Escarpment or, as Strzelecki and the local Aborigines called it, the Merrigong Range. The land on the coastal plain below the escarpment and extending to the south is allocated to Epoch 2 in yellow and curving around the southern extension of the basin in the vicinity of the Shoalhaven River and Berrima. Finally there is a spur looping in a south-easterly direction from Arthursleigh on the Wollondilly towards the Kangaroo River and the Shoalhaven River, allocated to the oldest rocks belonging to Epoch 1 and indicated in pink. This spur probably corresponds to the route he took into the district.
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| 2. Strzelecki's original manuscript geological map (extract), showing the region south of Sydney to the Clyde Rive and west towards Lake George. The original map is coloured, though faded in parts and described in detail within Branagan (1986). This map includes reference to 'Five Islands', 'Lake Illawarra', 'Shoalhaven R.' and 'Jervis Bay.' The original is in the Library of the British Geological Survey. It is 25 ft x 5 ft with a scale of 1/4in to 1 mile. |
This map includes both geographic and geological elements, with colour and markings to indicate various stratigraphic elements and time periods. These annotations indicate not only Strzelecki's findings, but also the precise areas he visited. They are an important supplement to the published map, which is by its nature very compressed and imprecise. Branagan (1986) includes a detailed description of the manuscript map, and some explanatory diagrams. One of these is included below for the area south of Wollongong and west to Lake George.
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| 3. A section of Strzelecki's original map with an associated legend from Branagan (1986) which attempts to summarise some of the information on the map. As can be seen, the original map contains a large amount of detail. |
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| 4. Strzelecki's annotated sketch of his manuscript map, showing the routes of his Australian expeditions. This is a copy drawn by A.E.J. Andrews in 1995 and published in Paszowski 1997. The original small map in Strzelecki's hand is in the Polish Academy of Science, Cracow. |
This map also indicates that Strzelecki took a second route south-east from Bundanoon / Marulan, near the head of the Shoalhaven River, and on towards the coast near the Coolangatta property of Alexander Berry, as indicated by the pink coloured spur in the published map. Both Illawarra excursions are indicated on the map below, though the bottom red line as reproduced from the original map is obviously in the wrong place. It is also interesting to note from the Cracow map that four of Strzelecki's excursion started from Parramatta, the location of Hannibal Macarthur's property Vineyard, and not necessarily from Sydney as such.
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| 5. Strzelecki's published map with routes to the Illawarra and Shoalhaven superimposed. The northerly route enters the Illawarra near Lake Illawarra. The southerly route appears to enter the County of Saint Vincent south of Jervis Bay, though the true route was along the Shoalhaven River, to the north. These southerly and easterly traverses would have aided his geographical and geological surveys. |
The copy of the original Carte Geologique map shows an additional (3rd) southern New South Wales excursion took place in the direction of the east coast of New South Wales, this time from Yass due east via the Queanbeyan River to the area of Araluen and Currowan Creek, then on towards the mountains west of Bateman's Bay and the Clyde River. Strzelecki then turned back, before reaching the coast, and eventually headed south towards Victoria. Andrews and Paszowski, in their map of known and inferred routes, include the second path into the Illawarra via Meryla Pass near Bundanoon / Marulan and along the northern bank of the Shoalhaven River towards Alexander Berry's Coolangatta farm near the coast.
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| 6. A.E.J. Andrews map of known and inferred routes, 1995. Published in Paszkowski 1997. Includes a route into the Illawarra, via Meryla Pass and along the northern bank of the Shoalhaven River, indicated as having taken place during January 1840. |
To the Illawarra - but when?
In working out precisely when P.E. Strzelecki undertook his collecting expeditions to the Illawarra we hit a veritable dead-end. Strzelecki does not tell us when they took place. Neither do extant manuscript records assist. We are left to guess. Windows of opportunity for such an excursion exist between May - August 1839, as suggested above, or following Strzelecki's departure from Sydney and Camden on his Victorian expedition on 27 December 1839 and prior to his arrival at Bogolong, south of Yass, on 20 January 1840. Strzelecki was also in New South Wales between 2 October 1842 and 22 April 1843 and initially appears to have spent most of his time on that occasion in the Hunter region. It is most likely that he visited the Shoalhaven in early January 1840. It is also possible that he visited the northern Illawarra prior to his Blue Mountains excursion of September 1839.
Strzelecki has not generally been written into Illawarra history, with Paszkowski the first modern writer to point to the fact that a visit took place there. W.L. Havard, author of an important 1940 work on Strzelecki's visit to Australia, spoke to the Illawarra Historical Society on this topic during September 1949. However, there is no reference by him to a Wollongong excursion in notes subsequently published in the Society's Bulletin. As information on Strzelecki's manuscript maps was not made public by Professor Branagan until their rediscovery in 1976, such an omission is understandable. What we do now know is that Strzelecki had ample opportunity to visit the Illawarra and may have done so between or during May - August 1839, January 1840, and October 1842 - April 1843.
In the opinion of the author it seems more likely that Strzelecki made his initial journey to Wollongong sometime between 8 June and the end of August 1839. His second visit, to the Shoalhaven, may have taken place following his departure from Camden on 27 December 1839 and journey towards Arthursleigh. He would still have had enough time to reach Berry's property and return, then journey on to Yass by 20 January where he joined his Gippsland expedition comrades James Macarthur, James Riley, Charlie Tara and the two convict servants.
In the path of Lady Jane Franklin?
One topic of conversation between the two adventurers may have been the Illawarra. In her manuscript diary of the overland excursion, and in letters written to her husband at the time, Lady Franklin described in detail her visit there and how much she enjoyed its rugged beauty. She immediately put in place plans to purchase some land in the district, but when the property she had in mind sold for almost £1,000 above the £1,500 she was prepared to pay, the opportunity lapsed. As she had travelled as far south as Kiama, which was noted for its geological diversity and volcanic outcrops, there is a strong possibility that it was from Lady Franklin and her party that Strzelecki was encouraged to go to the Illawarra in search of rocks, fossils and minerals. At the time a large harbour basin was being excavated at Wollongong, and there were a number of convict road gangs working in the district, forming road cuttings and quarrying local rock for road surfaces. Such activity was usually welcomed by geologists as it exposed, often for the first time, the local geology and stratigraphic elements. Lady Franklin was aware of geology and was actively collecting rocks and fossils for her own museum in Tasmania. This is evidenced by the following comment in her diary notes, taken at Wollongong on Sunday, 12 May:
Wollongong is about 3 1/2 yrs old. Works at basin begun 1 1/2 yrs ago, taking away solid sandstone rock from basin. 17 ft at high & about 9 at low water. Fossils in rock, stone balls in the sand. Mr Cronin stone mason, was to send me some balls in sand contain[ing] them. (Jane Franklin, Diary notes, p.212)
Strzelecki, Clarke and Dana
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| W.B. Clarke 1839. |
The Reverend W.B. Clarke (1798-1878), a Church of England minister and Cambridge University trained geologist with some twenty years field experience, had arrived in Australia with his family on 27 May 1839, tasked with delineating the sedimentary formations of New South Wales and reporting back to his fellow geologists in England, including the Reverend Professor Adam Sedgwick and Sir Roderick Murchison. Four weeks previous to this Strzelecki had landed with the stated aim of investigating the mineralogy of the colony. Clarke remained resident in New South Wales until his death at St Leonard's on 16 June 1878, whilst Strzelecki's stay was relatively brief (1839-43) and Dana's even briefer, numbering just a few weeks. Clarke did not mess about, and by December 1839 had geologised around Sydney and Parramatta and was looking forward to visiting the Illawarra region south of Sydney and the Blue Mountains in the west.
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| James Dwight Dana. |
...You are aware that there is, in this part of the world, a foreign traveller who styles himself Count Streleski; he is a well-informed, intelligent, and active person, and a most gentlemanly, pleasant companion. His residence here, with funds at his command apparently unlimited in extent, is as great a mystery, if he be really a Polish emigrant, as he calls himself, as it was to the Americans with whom he lived, and amongst whom he journeyed, before he came hither. He may be a Pole; but I believe there is no title of Count attached to that surname in Poland; or he may be a Russian or Gallician; at any rate he was known to Captain King as Count Streleski in America; and at the dinner given in Sydney by the officers of the United States Exploring Expedition to their British friends, I heard him most affectingly (or affectedly), in a brilliant speech, discourse on the hardships of his condition. He manages, however, here to go whither he wishes, and see what he likes.... (The Literary Gazette, London, 20 February 1841)
Illawarra Fossils
- Allorisma curvatum (Morris) - Illawarra, New South Wales. Bivalve shell - PD, pp270-1 ( Plate X. Fig. 1).
- Belerophon micromphalus (Morris) - Illawarra (New South Wales). Mollusc (snail) - PD, pp288-9 (Plate XVIII. fig. 7).
- Conularia levigata (Morris) - Illawarra - PD, pp290-1 (Plate XVIII. fig. 9, a, b).
- Eurydesma cordata (Sowerby) - Illawarra (New South Wales) - PD, pp275-6 (in Mitchell's Australia, Plate II. fig. 1, 2).
- Orthonota costata (Morris) - Illawarra - PD, pp273-4 (Plate XI. fig. 1, 2)
- Pachydomus antiquatus. Megadesmus antiquatus - Wollongong, New South Wales - PD, pp271-2 (J. Sowerby, in Mitchell's Australia, Plate I. fig. 2).
- Pachydomus cuneatus. Megadesmus cuneatus - Wollongong - PD, pp272 (J. Sowerby, in Mitchell's Australia, Plate I. fig. 3)
- Pachydomus laevis. Megadesmus laevis - Illawarra, New South Wales - PD, pp272 (J. Sowerby, in Mitchell's Australia, Plate I. fig. 1).
- Pachydomus globosus. Megadesmus globosus - Illawarra, New South Wales - PD, pp272-3 (Plate X. fig. 2, 3; J. Sowerby, in Mitchell's Australia, Plate III).
- Pachydomus carinatus. Megadesmus carinatus - Illawarra, New South Wales - PD, pp273 (Plate XI. fig. 3, 4).
- Pecten Illawarraensis (Morris) - Illawarra, New South Wales - PD, pp277 (Plate XIV. fig. 3).
- Platyschisma rotundatum (Morris) - PD, pp286 (Plate XVIII. fig. 2)
- Platyschisma oculus (Morris) - PD, pp286-7 (Plate XVIII. fig. 1)
- Pleurotomaria Strzeleckiana (Morris) - Illawarra - PD, pp287-8 (Plate XVIII. fig. 5).
- Pleurotomaria subcancellata (Morris) - Illawarra, New South Wales - PD, pp288 (Plate XVIII. fig. 6).
- Productus brachythaerus (Sowerby) - Illawarra - PD, pp284 (Plate XIV. fig. 4, a, b , c).
- Spirifer Darwinii - PD, pp279-80.
- Spirifer subradiatus - Illawarra - PD, pp281-2 (Plate XVI. fig. 1; Sowerby, in Darwin, l c. p.159).
- Stenopora crinita (Lonsdale) - Illawarra, New South Wales - PD, pp265-6 (Sp. nov. Plate VIII. Fig. 5, 5a).
- Terebratula hastata (Morris) - Illawarra - PD, pp278-9 (Sowerby, Min. Con., t. 446).
- Theca lanceolata - Illawarra, New South Wales - PD, pp289-90 (Plate XVIII. fig. 8).
Summary
The precise details of P.E. Strzelecki's visit the Illawarra and Shoalhaven between 1839-1843 remain unknown. A number of opportunities existed to travel to the region, especially between May-August 1839 and 27 December 1839 - 20 January 1840. The description of a significant collection of Illawarra Palaeozoic fossils in Physical Description attests to such a visit. Pending the discovery of new sources of information, this section of Strzelecki's life, like so many other parts, remains shrouded in mystery.
-----------------------
1807
1810
1818
Serves as an Ensign in the Prussian Cavalry.
1820+
Visits Saxony, Carlsbad, Italy and Switzerland.
1825
- Appointed Plenipotentiary to Prince Francis Sapieha.
1829
Prince Sapieha dies. Paul sues his son over the disputed will. Settled out of court.
1829-30
Strzelecki travels to France.
1830-1
Visits Africa.
1831
November - Moves to England and travels to the
north of Scotland. Acquires a knowledge of geognosy / geology and geography around this
time.
1834
June - Leaves England for New York.
1835
Travels throughout Canada and the United States, plus Cuba and Mexico.
November - Leaves the United States for Brazil and South America.
1836
22 January - Rio de Janeiro.
1837
September - Aboard HMS Cleopatra, Captain George
Grey.
1838
March - Mexico.
20 July - Leaves Valparaiso aboard HMS Fly for Pacific Islands, Captain Russell Elliott.
11 September - visits Mount Kilauea volcano.
21 September - Honolulu.
1 October - article on Mount Kilauea published in The Hawaiian Spectator, 434-7.
1839
16 January - Leaves Tahiti for New Zealand.
1 February - Sydney Herald: Crater of Kirauea, Hawaii article published
17 February - Bay of Islands, New Zealand, aboard French barque Justine.
10 April - leaves the Bay of Islands for Sydney.
25 April - Arrives in Sydney aboard Justine - listed as "Monsieur le Comte Treliski". Is immediately nominated by S.A. Donaldson for Honorary Membership of the Australian Club, Sydney.
29 April - Strzelecki letter to Adyna Turno.
May - Capt. Stokes and Beagle, in Sydney.
7 June - Dinner at Government House - meets Lady Jane Franklin.
11 July - visits Lady Jane Franklin at Government House.
August - Sets off on Blue Mountains expedition and to the Wellington Caves. Makes the first known scientific discovery of gold in Australia.
8 September - Mount Tomah (Diary).
10 September - Mount King George.
17 September - Letter to S.A. Donaldson from Walker's, Walerawang.
16 October - Strzelecki, Wellington to Thomas Walker.
26 October - Strzelecki to James Macarthur.
7 November - Sydney Gazette report on Blue Mount excursion and planned visit to the Australian Alps and Victoria - 'Science'.
28 November - Governor Gipps, Parramatta, to Governor LaTrobe, Melbourne - letter of introduction for Strzelecki.
20 December - Friday. Fort Macquarie meeting with W.B. Clarke.
21 December - Strzelecki to Donaldson.
22 December - Sunday. Leaves Australian Club, Sydney, on his second expedition, south to the Snowy Mountains, Victoria and Tasmania (Australasian Chronicle 24 December 1839; reprinted Port Phillip Gazette, 8 January 1840).
Count STRELESKI, the Naturalist, left the Australian Club on Sunday morning for Goulbourn, taking with him a covered cart, two horses, and a servant. It is his intention to explore the country, south of Yass to Port Phillip. He will then proceed to Launceston, exploring the interior of Van Diemen's Land as he goes along. He expects to return from Hobart Town to Sydney in about 4 months ; when we hope to be able to lay before our Readers some valuable information respecting the southern parts of the Colony. The Count will be accompanied part of the way by Mr. James Macarthur.
23 December - Arrives at Camden Park.
26 December - Meets German settlers at Camden Park.
27 December - Strzelecki leaves Camden Park. He subsequently travels [possibly] to the Illawarra and southward towards Goulburn.
1840
17 January - Macarthur leaves Vineyard, Parramatta, with John Riley and Charlie Tarra.
20 January - P.G. King to John Hay re Strzelecki. Given to him at Bogolong.
5 February - Arrives at Ellerslie. Macarthur & Riley around 21st.
2 March - Leave Ellerslie, accompanied by James Macarthur, James Riley, Charles Tara and two convict servants.
6 March - Sketches at John Hay;s property Welaregang by Macarthur and Riley.
7 March - Welaregang.
9 March - leave Welaregang.
12 March - Strzelecki climbs Mount Kosciusko. Then retraces steps 30 miles before heading south again.
26 March - McAlister's station.
6 April - Ford Nicholson (Riley) River.
12-14 May - Western Port.
16 May - Australian - report on Victorian expedition.
19 May - Arrives at Melbourne. Stays for 41 days, during which he writes a report and compiles a map which is sent to Governor Gipps.
24 May - Australian - report on Victorian expedition.
30 May - Port Phillip Gazette - report on arrival of the party in Melbourne.
2-3 June - Port Phillip Herald - report on expedition - The Progress of Discovery. Republished in the Sydney Herald, 20 June.
9 June - Port Phillip Herald - report on expedition.
22 June - Port Phillip Herald - report on expedition.
26 June - Strzelecki to Gipps - Report on Expedition.
7 July - Catches Emma to Geelong; Port Phillip Herald - editorial on Strzelecki.
9 July - The Colonist - John Dunmore Lang article critical of Strzelecki - Colonial Statistics: Count Streletski, or, The Progress of Discovery.
10 July - Catches Emma to Launceston.
10 July - Port Phillip Herald.
11 July - The Australian - Letter to the editor from H.F. Gisborne regarding Strzelecki's role in the 'discovery' of the Gippsland / Caledonia Australis region..
24 July - Arrives at Launceston.
1 August - Strzelecki, Launceston, to Adyna Turno.
7 August - Sir John Franklin to Strzelecki.
8 August - Archdeacon Browne diary notes.
14 August - Clarke to Murchison - critical of Strzelecki and his Gippsland expedition.
7 September - Lady Jane Franklin to her father, Mr Griffin, mentioning meeting Strzelecki.
28 September - Governor Gipps dispatch to Lord Russell including Strzelecki's report and map.
1841
20 February - Literary Gazette letter by Clarke critical
of Strzelecki. Clarke subsequently retracted his statements.
23 April - Gipps to LaTrobe, mentioning Strzelecki.
22 May - Strzelecki to James Macarthur.
22 June - Sydney Gazette article - critical.
23 July - Van Dieman's Land Chronicle - paper by
Strzelecki.
30 July - Van Dieman's Land Chronicle - Count Streleski: Irrigation. Reprinted Sydney Morning Herald 31 July.
19 August - Sydney Herald - Report by Count Strzelecki on geology & minerals.
20 August - Tasmanian Journal of Natural Science - article.
28 August - Strzelecki Report on Victoria, British Parliamentary
Papers, volume 17.
4 September - Geelong Advertiser: Progress of Discovery: Altitudes in Van Dieman's Land, by Count Strekeski.
6 October - At Campbell Town with Franklin.
9 November - Tasmanian Journal of Natural Science, No.2. 'Altitudes of Mountains'.
December - 4th Tasmanian expedition to the Bass Strait
islands with the HMS Beagle, Captain John Lort Stokes commander.
1842
13 January - Flinders Island.
8 February - Franklin to James.
21 February - Strzelecki to Franklin.
4 March - Franklin to Strzelecki.
16 March - Lady Jane Franklin to Strzelecki.
27 May - 'On Certain Varieties of Australian Coal.' Tasmanian Journal of Natural Science, No.3.
18 June - 'Burning off pasture graze', Hunter River Gazette.
August - Sydney Herald - commentary of Strzelecki's Victorian report, possibly by Clarke.
5 September - Lady Jane Franklin to Mrs Simpkinson regarding Strzelecki.
20 September - Franklin to Strzelecki.
29 September - Catches Sea Horse to Sydney.
2 October - Arrives at Sydney.
5 October - Strzelecki to Adyna Turno.
16 October - HMS Fly arrives in Sydney - geologist J.B. Jukes meets Strzelecki.
23 October - W.S. Macleay to P.P. King re Australian Club incident.
October-December - Liverpool Plains expedition.
15 November - Strzelecki, Port Stephens, to Colonial Secretary.
19 December - Strzelecki to Franklin.
20 December - Strzelecki, Port Stephens, to James Macarthur.
1843
February - Strzelecki dislocates his collar-bone.
April - From Tahlee to Sydney.
22 April - Leaves Sydney for Hong Kong and China on the barque Anna Robertson.
26 July - Strzelecki to P.P. King.
11 August - 'The Volcano of Kirauen, Sandwich Islands.' Tasmanian Journal of Natural Science, No.6.
24 October - London.
15 November - Strzelecki to Adyna Turno.
1844
October - Magazine of Natural History article.
1845
May - Physical Description published in London.
25 May - Charles Darwin letter to Strzelecki thanking him for a copy of his book.
5 June - Strzelecki to King, re copies of Physical Description.
June-September - Quarterly Review, London. Review of Physical Description.
19 July - Athenaeum, London. Review of Physical Description.
8 October - The Times, London. Review of Physical Description.
28 November - naturalised a British citizen.
3 December - Strzelecki to Sir Robert Peel offering his collection of Australian rocks and fossils to the Museum of Economic Geology for £200.
1846
Agent for the British Relief Association for the Irish Famine.
20 January - Sydney Herald. Review of Physical Description (Extracted from Calcutta Englishman).
28 January - Sydney Herald. Review of Physical Description (Extracted from The Times, 8 October 1845).
7 February - Launceston Examiner. Review of Physical Description (Extracted from Calcutta Englishman).
16 March - Sydney Herald. Review of Physical Description by W.B. Clarke. Part 1.
17 March - Port Phillip Herald. Review of Physical Description (Extracted from The Times, 8 October 1845); Port Phillip Patriot. Review of Physical Description.
27 March - Sydney Herald. Review of Physical Description by W.B. Clarke. Part 2.
3 April - Sydney Herald. Review of Physical Description by W.B. Clarke. Part 3.
7 April - Port Phillip Patriot. Review of Physical Description.
25 May - receives Founders Medal, Royal Geographical Society, London.
17 June - Launceston Examiner. Review of Physical Description.
26 August - Launceston Examiner. Review of Physical Description.
1 July - Port Phillip Gazette. Review of Physical Description.
8 July - Port Phillip Gazette. Review of Physical Description.
23 September - Launceston Examiner. Review of Physical Description.
24 October - Launceston Examiner. Review of Physical Description.
Agent for the British Association for the relief of the extreme Distress in Ireland & Scotland in Ireland.
1848
21 November - presented with a Civil Companion of Bath order for his work with the famine in Ireland.
1849
May - returns to London from Ireland.
16 May - Strzelecki to Sir Henry de la Beche offering eight boxes of Australian fossils and minerals plus two maps to the Museum of Economic Geology.
1851
17 May - Sydney Herald - Letter from Thomas Walker regarding Strzelecki's gold discovery in Australian during October 1839.
July - committee member of the Geography and Ethnology Section of the British Association for the Advancement of Science, Ipswich meeting.
1852
25 November - P.E. Strzelecki to Thomas Walker.
1853
9 May - Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, London.
June - Fellow of the Royal Society of London.
14 June - Sydney Herald - P.E. Strzelecki's letter to Thomas Walker of 25 November 1852 is published.
June - made a Fellow of the Royal Society of London.
1854
16 January - The Times, London - report of Australian gold discovery claims.
3 March - P.E. Strzelecki to P.P. King.
4 June - P.E. Strzelecki to P.P. King.
6 November - P.E. Strzelecki writes to the Reverend W.B. Clarke regarding the gold discoveries in Australia.
1855
Accompanies Lord Lyons to the Crimea during the war.
1860
20 June - made a DCL (Doctor of Civil Law) at Oxford.
1862
On the council of the Royal Geographical Society.
1869
13 June - granted a KCMG (Knight Commander of St Michael and St George).
1873
6 October - Pawel Edmund Strzelecki dies in London.
----------------------------------
References
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